Georgian Ruby Emerald Diamond and Gold Cannetille Brooch-Cum-Pendant, Circa 1830

A Georgian cannetille brooch-cum-pendant, with a cushion shaped emerald in the centre, surrounded by a cluster of eight, old mine-cut diamonds, with six, oval faceted rubies and six square emeralds in the surround, with the settings, granulation, cannetille twisted wirework and florets soldered onto an oval shaped, scalloped edged, embossed, granulated plate, giving a three dimensional effect, mounted in gold, circa 1830, with a double twist bail and a later pin.

Cannetille work was in fashion from 1815 to 1840. It was inspired by embroidery, particularly styles seen in peasant clothing. It was made by soldering thin threads, forming scrolls, rosettes and coils together to form a three dimensional design, often embellished with granulation. It became popular during this era due to the shortage of gold, in Europe, because of the Napoleonic wars. This technique could produce larger, ornate looking pieces, using less gold and comparatively cheaper gems. The considerable time and skill involved was balanced by low labour costs. The jewels were often embellished with coloured gemstones, such as aquamarine, pink topaz, amethyst and chrysoberyl. Czech garnets, turquoise and opals were often set in pieces from central Europe. Rubies were seen in English cannetille items. The settings were usually closed backed and foiled. The taste for and manufacture of cannetille jewellery decreased in the 1840s. Cannetille was at its height of popularity around 1830.