An antique, French, diamond fringe tiara necklace, by Ch. Fontana & Cie, with the front section comprising a fringe of graduating pendants, linked at the top with rose-cut diamonds, in rub over settings, alternating with knife edge drops, topped with rose-cut diamonds in arrow head shaped grain settings, with old-cut diamond terminals, in crown claw settings, with tiny rose-cut diamonds, in rub over settings, above. The backchain, of alternating, rose-cut diamond set concave squares and rose-cut diamonds in rub over settings, detaches to wear as a separate bracelet. Mounted in silver-upon-gold, with later rhodium plating, bearing a French eagle head mark, for 18ct, on the tongue. Estimated total diamond weight of 12.00ct. This beautiful tiara has, at some point during its lifetime, been plated, by a previous owner, to give it a bright polish. It came to us as a necklace, with the original removable back chain fitting, which suggested to us that it was always intended to be a tiara so we asked our workshop to make a frame.
Fontana, one of the most famous jewellery houses in Paris, in the late 19th and early 20th Century, was founded by a Swiss jeweller, Thomas Fontana (1813-1861). He opened a modest workshop in an arcade inside the Galerie Beaujolais, near the Palais Royale, with his first store front in the Palais Royal opening in 1840. His reputation for fine quality work soon spread and business flourished meaning that he was able to expand his premises and eventually take over the entire building. Further stores were opened in Arcades across the city.
When Thomas died, in 1861, his son Charles was not old enough to assume leadership of the firm so control passed to his nephew, Joseph Fontana and nephew by marriage, Alexandre Templier. They exhibited at the 1867 Paris Exposition Universelle, where they showcased a wide range of pieces including a series of unusual jewels, in the Chinese style, decorated with enamelled gods and goddesses, sumptuously dressed and hung with tiny platinum bells.
Thomas’ son Charles came of age in 1867 and entered the business. He assumed management four years later, in 1871, re-naming the firm Ch. Fontana et Cie. He continued to work alongside his cousins for another ten years.
In 1881 the company split. Joseph left, with his brother Giacomo, to form Fontana Freres, which was established at the Galerie de Valois. In 1893, when the Palais Royal fell out of favour with the public, the brothers moved to new premises at 7 rue de la Paix , Joseph died in 1897, Giacamo in 1899. Pierre Fontana, son of Joseph, was their successor. Charles continued with the original business, at 96 and 98 of the Galerie de Beaujolaisl. In 1896 the firm moved their headquarters to spacious new premises at 13 Rue Royale, and throughout the early 20th Century exhibited and created exceptional Art Nouveau and Art Deco pieces.
In 1900 the firm exhibited at the Exposition Universelle with a display of Art Nouveau designs which combined gemstones and enamel work. The firm continued throughout the Art Deco period producing fashionable items such as sautoirs and diamond clips.
Fontana was recognised for beautiful design and fine craftsmanship, described by Vever as “one of the most famous in Paris”. They attracted a loyal clientele for jewellery, predominantly designed in the traditional taste, “classic and rich”, according to Vever, which appealed to the Parisian bourgeois. Pieces by Fontana are sought-after, with pieces rarely appearing for sale.
Chaumet holds the Fontana archives.
This tiara necklace bears the CF& Cie maker’s mark. There was also a CF et Cie maker’s mark registered in 1882. The last recorded date for this mark was 1962.
With thanks to Hancocks, Wilson 55, Christie’s, The Velvet Box Society, Coutau-Bégarie.
