French Belle Époque Sapphire Diamond and Platinum Cluster Ring, Circa 1905

A French Belle Époque sapphire diamond and platinum cluster ring, with an oval faceted sapphire, in a rub over setting, surrounded by a double cluster, of narrow rows of old-cut diamonds, in single row pavé grain settings, with an air gap between, with old-cut diamond set trefoil shoulders, onto a banded shank, with a scalloped gallery, mounted in platinum, circa 1905, with a French eagle head mark. Estimated sapphire weight 3.30 carat. Estimated total diamond weight 0.80 carat. In our opinion the colour is H to I and our opinion of the clarity is VS.

This ring electronically tests as platinum, however it is struck with an eagle head mark. Before 1910 there was no specific mark for platinum. Items would be routinely stamped with marks used for gold, such as the eagle head. The French assay offices considered this acceptable, due to platinum's distinct white colour. In the period between 1910 and 1912 the rhinoceros head was often used to mark platinum. Around December 1912 the dog head mark was introduced for marking platinum.