Georgian Bague à l'Enfantement Pearl Diamond Enamel Silver and Gold Ring, Circa 1790

A Georgian "Bague à l'Enfantement" diamond and enamel ring, with a half pearl in the centre, with a rose-cut diamond set surround and double leaf motif above and below, in silver grain settings, on a blue guilloche enamel background, with a gold, double ribbon border and a border of half seed pearls, in grain settings, onto a long oval plaque. The polished, gold back of the plaque is curved, with a wide, tapering, plain shank, mounted in 9ct gold, circa 1790.

Georgian "Bague à l'Enfantement" and "Bague au Firmament" translated as "Ring of the Stars", otherwise "starry night sky" rings were very fashionable in the Georgian era. The style evoked the night sky. The deep blue enamel symbolised the sky; the diamonds and pearls represented the stars.

"Bague au Firmament" rings were originally created in France, to celebrate Queen Marie-Antoinette's pregnancies. "Bague à l'Enfantement" or childbirth rings, followed, shortly after the birth of Marie Antoinette’s daughter, Marie-Thérèse-Charlotte, the Madame Royale, in December 1785.

The Cabinet des Modes, (widely recognised as the first real fashion magazine), issue of July 15, 1786, Plate III, featured a chart of jewellery designs from the shop of Parisian merchant-jeweller, Monsieur Moricand, which popularised the bague à l'Enfantement or childbirth ring. According to the accompanying article in the magazine, these large statement rings celebrated royal births and pregnancies. "Bague au Firmament" rings were set with "little stars". "Bague à l'Enfantement" rings featured a prominent, large central gemstone, typically encircled by a halo of smaller diamonds, gems, or pearls.

The rings continued to be popular after the French Revolution, into the 19th century, with the fashion spreading into Europe. English examples utilised royal blue enamel or Bristol cobalt blue glass.

With thanks to Lost Owl and Heart of Hearts Jewels.

Image: Cabinet des Modes ou les Modes Nouvelles, 15 Juillet 1786, engraved by A.B. Duhamel, pl. III, Hand-coloured engravings in the Rijksmuseum Amsterdam, Wikimedia Commons.