A pair of French, vintage emerald, diamond and gold earrings by André Vassort, each set with two watermelon cut emeralds, on the form of berries, with diamond set terminals, with two leaves and a stalk pavé set with round brilliant cut diamonds, mounted in 18ct gold, with clip-on fittings, with eagle head marks and OR 750 for 18ct gold and engraved ELDE, with AV maker's mark for André Vassort, Paris, circa 1960.
André Vassort was born in 1881 in the city of Paris. He started his career as a painter but eventually turned to jewellery design in the 1950s. He set up his workshop, Atelier Vassort, at 34 Rue Sainte Anne, registering his business and maker’s mark in December 1955. He quickly gained recognition for his innovative designs, which were a departure from the more traditional styles that dominated the jewellery industry at the time. His creations came with the promise of excellent craftsmanship. He became one of the most recognised and sought after manufacturers of high quality French jewellery in the mid twentieth century. His workshop growing to be one of the biggest in Paris. He took on apprentices in addition to his experienced employees. He created fine jewels for Van Cleef & Arpels, Boucheron and Mauboussin, amongst other high end Parisian houses. They commissioned Atelier Vassort to make pieces for Royalty of both the West and East as well as Hollywood legends. A noted creation is the emerald, ruby, pearl and diamond crown made on behalf of Van Cleef & Arpels for the coronation of Empress Farah of Iran.
Much of his jewellery would never have been marked so will remain unknown to all except those who made it. However sometimes his mark appears alongside the signature of one of his famous clients and occasionally it is seen on its own.
The Atelier closed in the early 1990s after establishing itself as one of the most important manufacturers of French jewellery of the mid to late 20th century. The mark of André Vassort is a mark of quality craftsmanship and fine jewellery. Vassort's work was widely exhibited in the 1950s and 1960s, including at the Museum of Modern Art in New York and the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. His pieces are now highly sought after by collectors and can be found in museums and private collections around the world.
With thanks to Hancocks, RAF Jewels and ddeco.com
